Plastering and Rendering Services

RCR Connections Ltd is a Birmingham based plastering and rendering company covering the whole of the Midlands, including Solihull. This page brings together every service we offer and every local area page, so you can find the right information quickly.

WhatsApp: 07453 614095 · Monday to Friday 7am–5pm, Saturday 7am–1pm

Plastering

• Skimming and re-skimming: a smooth finish coat over sound plaster or plasterboard, ready to decorate.
• Re-plastering: removing blown or damaged plaster and replastering, often after damp work or a rewire.
• Ceilings: over-boarding and skimming cracked, sagging or textured ceilings.
• Plasterboard and dot-and-dab: boarding extensions, loft rooms, garage conversions and partitions.
• Patch repairs: making good after electricians, plumbers and kitchen fitters.

Plastering pages: Plasterer in Birmingham · Plasterer in Solihull · Plasterer in Coventry · Plasterer in Tamworth

Rendering

• Silicone render: a polymer base coat with mesh and a thin, flexible, water-repellent silicone finish. Most of our rendering uses this system.
• Through-coloured (monocouche) render: colour runs right through, so it doesn’t need painting.
• Sand and cement render: traditional and durable, normally painted.
• Insulated render: render over external insulation boards on solid-walled houses.
• Render repairs: cutting out cracked or hollow sections and patching in.

Rendering pages: Rendering contractors in Birmingham · Rendering in Solihull · Rendering in Tamworth · K-Rend monocouche in Birmingham and Solihull · K-Rend monocouche in the West Midlands

Our work

See photos of finished jobs on our projects page.

Plastering and rendering explained: a guide to every service

RCR Connections Ltd is Birmingham based, covering the whole of the Midlands. Everything in the sections below goes further than the quick lists above, explaining what each plastering and rendering service involves, when it is the right choice, how we prepare for it and what you can expect afterwards, so you can work out what your walls, ceilings or render actually need before you get in touch.

Plastering services explained

Finish coats over sound walls

The most common plastering job in any house is a new finish coat over walls or ceilings that are basically sound but rough, patched or marked. Two thin coats of finishing plaster go on in quick succession and are trowelled flat and smooth, leaving a hard surface ready for paint. It suits plasterboard, older plaster that is still well bonded and walls left uneven by years of filling. The key is preparation: loose material scraped back, cracks taped, corners beaded and the surface primed so the new coat grips evenly. This is the service many people search for as skimming, and it is linked from the plastering list above.

Full re-plastering

Once old plaster has parted company with the masonry, crumbled from damp or been hacked off for a damp course, the wall needs building up again from the masonry. That means an undercoat, or backing coat, to straighten and fill the wall, followed by a finish. On modern brick and block, gypsum undercoats such as bonding or hardwall plaster are the usual choice. Older solid walls, particularly any that have suffered damp, need a more breathable build-up, and may recommend a lime-based or more permeable system. Re-plastering takes longer than a finish coat and needs more drying time, so it is worth planning around it.

Ceiling repairs, overboarding and replacement

Ceilings fail in their own ways. Lath and plaster ceilings start to droop when the keys holding them on snap off over time. Plasterboard ceilings crack along the joints or where nails have worked loose. Textured coatings from the 1960s to the 1990s often look tired and may hide cracks. Depending on the ceiling, we repair a section, fix new boards over the existing surface and plaster them, or take the old ceiling down and start again. Textured coatings dating from before 2000 need an asbestos test first; once it has been tested, plastering over or overboarding usually avoids disturbing it at all.

Plasterboard, dry-lining and partitions

Boarding is the starting point for most new rooms. We fit boards to timber or metal studs, screw them to ceiling joists, or bond them to masonry with adhesive dabs, then tape the joints and plaster. Board grades vary by job: plain sheets for general walls and ceilings, a water-resistant grade where kitchens, utilities and bathrooms see steam, fire-rated board around steels and in garage ceilings, acoustic board between bedrooms and in media rooms, and insulated board on cold walls where the wall can take it. Your designer or building control will usually specify which grades are needed in extensions and conversions.

Patching and making good

Electricians, plumbers, kitchen fitters and window installers all leave their mark. Chased-in cables, moved sockets, removed radiators and new window reveals leave holes and channels that need filling and finishing so they disappear under paint. Small patches are quick, but they still need the right background treatment, or they shrink, crack or show through the decoration.

Beads, corners and reveals

Corners and window reveals take knocks and show every wave. Metal or plastic beads give a straight, tough edge on external corners and around openings, and stop beads give a clean edge where plaster meets another material. We fit them as part of almost every job.

Coving

Plain coving finishes the junction between wall and ceiling neatly and can hide minor cracking along the line. We fit standard profiles. Where a historic cornice needs repair or replacement, we will point you towards a fibrous plaster specialist.

Plastering extensions, lofts and conversions

New extensions, loft rooms and garage conversions are mostly boarded and plastered from scratch. We slot into the builder’s timetable once cables and pipes are roughed in and before the finishing trades return, and plaster walls, ceilings, slopes, dormers, reveals and stairwells. We leave fire boards, insulation and other inspected items visible until building control has seen them, if your builder asks.

Rendering services in detail

Silicone render systems

Most of our rendering is a polymer base coat with reinforcing mesh, finished with a thin silicone top coat. The base coat gives strength and crack resistance; the silicone finish repels water, stays cleaner than plain mineral finishes where algae and traffic grime are an issue, and is made in dozens of shades. Sound existing render, fresh blockwork and plenty of re-render projects suit it well, provided any failed coating is stripped first.

K-Rend monocouche and silicone finishes

Monocouche simply means one coat. K-Rend monocouche is laid on as one heavy layer, often in two passes in quick succession, then is scraped back once firm to leave an even, lightly textured face. Because the pigment is mixed through the material, there is no painting to do. We choose between K-Rend monocouche and silicone finishes according to the background and the appearance you are after. Our K-Rend monocouche guide explains the system in more depth.

Sand and cement

Old-fashioned sand and cement remains a good, durable option for many walls, especially where a painted finish is wanted or a house is being matched to its neighbours. It is applied in two coats, a scratch coat and a finish, and painted once it has cured.

Lime render on older buildings

Solid stone and brick walls built with lime mortar need a render that lets moisture escape. Cement render on these walls can trap water and cause damp inside. Where a building needs a lime approach, we will say so, and for listed buildings or very sensitive work we may recommend a lime specialist.

Render repairs

Cracked, hollow or bulging render lets water into the wall behind. Repairs involve cutting out the failed area back to sound render, preparing the background and patching in with a compatible material. Matching the texture and colour of old render exactly is not always possible, so on a very visible elevation it can be better to repair and then overcoat the whole face.

Rendering over pebble-dash and old render

Pebble-dash and older painted render can sometimes be prepared and overcoated with a modern system, which saves the cost and mess of hacking it all off. We tap-test the walls first. Where the existing finish is loose or hollow, it has to come off. Our guide to rendering over pebbledash explains the options.

Rendering extensions and new blockwork

New extensions are often rendered to match or contrast with the house. Blockwork is a good background for render, and we finish the corners, reveals and junctions with beads and trims for crisp lines.

Plastering room by room

Kitchens and utility rooms

Kitchens see steam, heat and splashes, and their walls are usually full of sockets, pipes and fixings. When a new kitchen is going in, plastering fits best once new wiring and pipe runs are in place but before any cabinets are fitted. We use moisture-resistant board where walls are being lined, and leave a smooth, flat finish ready for tiles or paint.

Bathrooms and en-suites

Behind tiles, plaster or board needs to be sound and suitable for the conditions. In showers, a proper tile backer board or tanking system is normally used rather than plaster alone. Elsewhere in the room, moisture-resistant board and a good finish coat give a surface that copes with steam, provided the room has decent extraction.

Halls, stairs and landings

Hallways take the most knocks, and stairwells are tall and awkward. Corners are beaded, damaged sections are cut out and patched, and high walls are reached from proper platforms rather than ladders. Ceilings over stairs are a common place for old lath to fail, often spotted only when a crack appears across the landing.

Living rooms and bedrooms

These rooms tend to need a cosmetic finish more than anything else: cracks after a dry summer, old filler, removed fireplaces or chimney breasts, and the scars of lighting changes. Taking out a chimney breast or blocking a fireplace leaves areas that need careful making good so the join never shows.

Garages and conversions

Converting a garage into a room means new walls, insulation, a lowered threshold and usually a new ceiling, all boarded and plastered. Integral garages below bedrooms need fire-rated ceilings, which building control checks.

Cellars and basements

Below-ground rooms bring water and condensation risks. They usually need a waterproofing or membrane system specified by a damp specialist, and the plaster or board goes on after that.

Rendering by type of house

Bungalows

Single-storey homes are often the simplest to render, with easy access and less scaffold. Many bungalows across the region have pebble-dash or painted finishes that can be refreshed with a modern system.

Semis and detached houses from the 1930s to the 1970s

These houses often have a part-rendered front, bay windows and pebble-dash gables. A full re-render, or a render on the upper storey only, can change the look of the house completely. Bays and porches need careful detailing with beads and drips.

Newer homes

Houses from the last thirty years are often built in block with brick slips or a partial render finish. Here the job is often repairing cracks or staining, or rendering a new extension to match the original.

Period cottages and older buildings

On older solid walls, the choice of material matters most. Lime render, or a breathable modern system where suitable, protects the wall without trapping moisture. We look at the wall closely before recommending anything.

Extensions

Rendering an extension gives a clean look and can hide a mismatch between old and new brick. We set out drip beads, corner beads and stop beads so the new render meets windows, doors and the existing house neatly.

How to tell which service you need

Look closely at the surface

Hairline cracks, rough patches and old filler on an otherwise solid wall usually point to a new finish coat. Bulging, hollow-sounding or crumbling areas point to re-plastering. Ceilings that sag or move when pushed gently from below need more than a cosmetic fix.

Think about what caused the damage

If plaster is damp, stained or flaking, the cause matters more than the plaster. Leaking gutters, plumbing leaks, high ground levels and condensation should be put right first. Skip that step and the fresh plaster simply repeats the old failure.

Consider the age of the building

Houses built before about 1919 usually have solid walls and lime plasters, and they benefit from breathable repairs. Houses from the 1920s onwards mostly have cavity walls and suit modern gypsum products.

Ask about the future

If you are planning a rewire, new heating, a kitchen or new windows, do those first. Plastering once, at the right point, is cheaper than patching twice.

Plastering and rendering across the Midlands: what changes from place to place

Birmingham’s terraces and suburbs

Birmingham’s inner suburbs are full of Victorian and Edwardian terraces with solid brick walls, lime-based original plaster and lath ceilings, many of them altered over a century or more. Further out, the inter-war and post-war suburbs bring cavity walls, gypsum plasters and plasterboard ceilings. The difference matters: a terrace in Small Heath or Moseley needs a different approach to damp and re-plastering than a 1950s semi in Sheldon or Northfield.

Solihull’s villages and estates

Solihull mixes historic villages, with timber-framed and estate cottages, and large twentieth-century estates of semis, detached houses and bungalows. Extensions, loft conversions and knock-throughs are especially common, and so is the need to join old walls neatly to new ones.

Coventry and the Warwickshire villages

Coventry has a large stock of inter-war and post-war housing, rebuilt after wartime damage, alongside Victorian terraces. In south Warwickshire, stone and brick villages such as Kineton, Wellesbourne and Alcester have many older buildings in lias and ironstone, where breathable materials are often essential.

The Black Country and Sandwell

Dense Victorian terraces, inter-war council estates and post-war housing are typical here, with a lot of pebble-dash and older render on the outside. Re-rendering and render repairs are frequent requests.

Staffordshire and Worcestershire

Market towns such as Lichfield and Tamworth, and villages around Bromsgrove, Kidderminster and Kinver, have a mix of historic centres and newer estates. Sandstone and brick buildings in places like Kinver and Wombourne have their own needs, and newer estates often want extensions rendered.

A plain-English glossary

Arris

The sharp edge where two plastered surfaces meet at a corner. A crisp arris is a sign of careful work.

Backing coat or undercoat

The first, thicker layer of plaster on masonry, used to straighten and fill the wall before the finish coat goes on.

Bead

A strip, in galvanised metal or PVC, set on corners, reveals and edges to give a straight, durable line.

Bonding agent

A liquid applied to smooth or very absorbent backgrounds so plaster grips well and does not dry too fast.

Dot and dab

A method of fixing plasterboard to masonry with blobs of adhesive, leaving a small gap behind the board.

Dry-lining

Lining walls with plasterboard instead of applying wet plaster directly to the masonry.

Finish coat

The final thin layer of plaster that gives the smooth surface you paint. Often what people mean by a skim.

Hardwall and bonding

Two common gypsum undercoats. Hardwall is for most brick and block; bonding is for smoother or less absorbent backgrounds.

Lath and plaster

The traditional ceiling and partition method: narrow strips of timber fixed across the joists or studs, with lime plaster forced between them so it locks on behind.

Lime plaster

A traditional, breathable plaster that sets slowly by absorbing carbon dioxide from the air. Suits solid walls and historic buildings.

Mist coat

Thinned matt emulsion brushed or rolled onto fresh plaster first, so the paint soaks in and later coats bond.

Monocouche

A one-coat render, coloured all the way through, which is left unpainted.

Overboarding

Screwing fresh boards straight over a tired ceiling or wall instead of stripping it out.

Pebble-dash

A render finish with small stones thrown onto the wet surface. Common on mid-twentieth-century houses.

Reveal

The side and top faces of a window or door opening.

Scrim

Reinforcing tape or mesh bedded over joints and cracks to stop them reopening.

Silicone render

A thin, water-repellent render finish, usually applied over a polymer base coat and mesh.

Stop bead

A bead used to give a clean finishing edge where plaster or render stops against another surface.

Tanking

Waterproofing below-ground walls, such as cellars, before they are lined or plastered.

Questions to ask any plastering or rendering firm

What exactly is included?

Preparation, beads, boards, waste removal and making good should all be clear in the quote.

What will you do with the existing surface?

You want to hear which parts are being kept, which are being stripped, and the reasoning.

What materials will you use?

Ask how they suit your walls, especially if the house is old or has had damp.

How long will it take, and when can I decorate?

Expect a realistic programme and honest advice on drying.

Who arranges scaffolding, skips and other trades?

It helps to agree this at the start.

Materials we use and why

Gypsum plasters

For most interior walls and ceilings in houses built from the 1920s onwards, gypsum plasters are quick, hard and reliable. Undercoats straighten masonry, and multi-finish plaster gives the smooth top surface. They set within hours and dry within days to weeks depending on thickness.

Lime

Lime plasters and renders are slower and need more care, but they let older walls breathe. Where a building was built with lime, we prefer to repair it with lime or with a compatible breathable product, and we will tell you if a specialist is the better choice.

Plasterboard

Modern boards come in many grades. Picking the right one for each room, and fixing it properly with the correct spacing of screws or adhesive, matters as much as the plaster that goes over it.

Render systems

On the outside, we use proprietary systems from established manufacturers, applied to their instructions: base coats, mesh, primers and finishes that are designed to work together. That includes K-Rend monocouche and silicone finishes, as well as traditional sand and cement where it suits the house.

After the work: looking after plaster and render

Indoors

Let new plaster dry fully before hanging heavy items or fitting tiles. Small shrinkage cracks can appear as a house warms up after work; these can be filled and painted over during decoration. Avoid drying rooms quickly with dehumidifiers on full or heaters pointed at walls, as fast drying can cause cracking and weak spots.

Outdoors

Keep gutters clear and downpipes connected so water does not pour down rendered walls. Silicone finishes can be washed down lightly, using the manufacturer’s recommended cleaning product, if grime builds up. Check sealant around windows and doors every few years, and deal with any cracks early before water gets in behind the render.

When to get in touch again

If you see new cracks, bulges, damp patches or render that sounds hollow when tapped, send us photos. Spotting problems early keeps repairs small.

Typical timescales

A single room

Plastering the walls and ceiling of an average bedroom or living room is often a one or two day job, depending on preparation, with drying time to follow before decoration.

A whole floor or a full re-plaster

Larger jobs, especially where old plaster is being hacked off and walls built up again, take longer and are best planned with the other trades. Backing coats need time before the finish goes on.

Extensions and loft conversions

Boarding and plastering a typical extension or loft room usually takes several days, fitted around the builder’s schedule.

Rendering a house

Rendering depends heavily on the size of the house, the state of the existing walls, scaffold and, above all, the weather. Render cannot go on in rain, frost or strong heat, so spring to early autumn is the busiest period. We give you a realistic programme at quote stage and let you know promptly if the weather forces a change.

Why weather matters so much

Render that freezes or dries too fast in hot sun or wind can crack, lose strength or show patchy colour. Through-coloured and silicone finishes are especially sensitive, so we would rather wait a day than put on a finish that will not last. Our guide to rendering in winter has more.

Our area pages

Every local page linked below covers one town or village in depth, with notes on the history of the place, the kinds of houses found there and the plastering and rendering issues they tend to have. They are a good place to start if you want advice that fits your area, from Victorian terraces in Birmingham to stone cottages in south Warwickshire.

Planning a job with us

Photos first

For a fast price, send pictures of the walls, ceilings or render, with rough measurements, your postcode and a note of what you want. For straightforward work, that is often enough for a guide figure. Bigger jobs and period houses usually need a site visit.

A clear quote

Our quotes set out what we will do, what is not included, what you need to arrange, such as an electrician to release sockets, and how long the job should take. Anything outside our trade that we spot, a slipped tile or a leaking pipe for instance, gets flagged.

Working with your builder

On extensions and conversions, we work to the builder’s programme and the approved drawings. We are used to fitting in between first and second fix and to leaving work ready for building control inspections.

Looking after the house

Dust sheets and floor protection go on floors, stair treads and furniture; sheet doorways and keep our work area tidy. We take away our waste and old plaster, and where a lot of material is coming off, a skip may be needed.

Preparing your home

Inside

Empty what you can from the room, bunch the rest centrally, unhook curtains, pictures and shelving, and get old wallpaper off if possible. Have sockets and switches loosened and radiators removed where walls behind them are being plastered.

Outside

For rendering, clear the area around the walls, cut back plants and climbers and move anything stored against the house. Scaffolding, if needed, is arranged before we start. Let neighbours know if access is shared.

Drying, curing and decorating

New plaster

Plaster dries from dark to light. A finish coat on board can be dry in a few days; backing coats and lime plasters take longer. Keep rooms gently warm and ventilated, and avoid fierce heat. Start decorating with a mist coat of thinned matt emulsion, or with a breathable paint on lime plaster.

New render

Render needs dry weather above about five degrees to cure. Silicone and through-coloured finishes are designed to be left as they are. Sand and cement render can be painted once it has fully cured, using a masonry paint suited to the system.

Planning permission and building regulations

Render

In many cases a re-render falls within permitted development rights. Listed buildings, conservation areas and some estates with restrictive covenants are exceptions, so a quick check with the council is wise first.

Inside the house

Inside a listed building, removing historic plaster or ceilings may need listed building consent. In extensions and conversions, building regulations set requirements for insulation, fire boards and moisture-resistant materials, which we follow.

Common problems we put right

Cracks that keep coming back

Cracks at the junction between old walls and new extensions, or along plasterboard joints, reopen if they are only filled. Bridging the line with scrim and using beads at edges stops most of them returning.

Plaster over damp

Put gypsum straight onto a wet solid wall and it will blister and mark. The cause has to be fixed and the right plaster chosen.

Paint peeling from new plaster

Usually caused by painting before the plaster was dry, or by using a vinyl paint as the first coat. Strip back, let it dry and start again with a mist coat.

Render cracking and staining

Old render cracks with movement and age, and dark staining often points to water getting in. Repair the cracks, deal with gutters and drips, and consider a silicone finish, which sheds water and dirt.

Experience and approach

Between us, the team has 62 years of combined experience, which takes in plastering and rendering on everything from Victorian terraces and timber-framed cottages to new extensions and modern estates. We keep explanations plain, lay out the options honestly and tidy up properly when we finish.

Hours and contact

You can reach us Monday to Friday 7am to 5pm and Saturday 7am to 1pm; Sunday we are closed. WhatsApp me on 07453 614095 or message the page, ideally with pictures attached.

Areas we cover

Solihull and nearby

• Plasterer in Solihull
• Rendering in Solihull
• Plasterer in Shirley
• Plasterer in Olton
• Plasterer in Bentley Heath
• Plasterer in Dickens Heath
• Plasterer in Balsall Common
• Plasterer in Berkswell
• Plasterer in Hampton-in-Arden
• Plasterer in Meriden
• Plasterer in Marston Green
• Plasterer in Chelmsley Wood
• Plasterer in Castle Bromwich
• Plasterer in Copt Heath
• Plasterer in Hockley Heath
• Plasterer in Wythall

Birmingham and suburbs

• Plasterer in Birmingham
• Rendering Contractors in Birmingham
• Plasterer in Sutton Coldfield
• Plasterer in Four Oaks
• Plasterer in Erdington
• Plasterer in Harborne
• Plasterer in Moseley
• Plasterer in Kings Heath
• Plasterer in Selly Oak
• Plasterer in Northfield
• Plasterer in Hall Green
• Plasterer in Acocks Green
• Plasterer in Hay Mills
• Plasterer in Sheldon
• Rendering in Yardley

Coventry and Warwickshire

• Plasterer in Coventry
• Plasterer in Kenilworth
• Plasterer in Warwick
• Plasterer in Leamington Spa
• Plasterer in Rugby
• Plasterer in Nuneaton
• Plasterer in Bedworth
• Plasterer in Atherstone
• Plasterer in Coleshill
• Plasterer in Southam
• Plasterer in Kineton
• Plasterer in Wellesbourne
• Rendering in Stratford-upon-Avon
• Plasterer in Henley-in-Arden
• Plasterer in Lapworth
• Plasterer in Tanworth-in-Arden
• Plasterer in Studley
• Plasterer in Alcester
• Plasterer in Bidford-on-Avon

Black Country, Sandwell and Walsall

• Plasterer in Wolverhampton
• Plasterer in Dudley
• Plasterer in Stourbridge
• Rendering in Halesowen
• Plasterer in West Bromwich
• Rendering in Oldbury
• Rendering in Smethwick
• Rendering in Wednesbury
• Rendering in Walsall
• Rendering in Aldridge
• Rendering in Streetly

Staffordshire

• Plasterer in Tamworth
• Rendering in Tamworth
• Plasterer in Lichfield
• Plasterer in Burntwood
• Rendering in Cannock
• Rendering in Little Aston
• Rendering in Wombourne
• Plasterer in Kinver

Worcestershire

• Plasterer in Worcester
• Rendering in Bromsgrove
• Rendering in Droitwich Spa
• Rendering in Kidderminster
• Rendering in Redditch
• Rendering in Hagley
• Plasterer in Barnt Green

Frequently asked questions

What areas do you cover?

We’re based in Birmingham and cover the whole of the Midlands, including Solihull, Coventry and parts of Warwickshire, Worcestershire and Staffordshire. The full list of local pages is above. If your town isn’t listed, ask anyway.

How do I get a quote?

Send photos of the walls or rooms, rough sizes and your postcode by WhatsApp to 07453 614095, or email rcrconnectionsltd@gmail.com. We’ll come back with a quote or arrange to look at the job if we need to see it first. Quotes are free.

Which render system is best for my house?

It depends on the wall. Most of our rendering is a polymer base coat with reinforcing mesh and a silicone top coat, which suits a wide range of walls. We also quote for through-coloured K-Rend monocouche render and sand and cement. We’ll recommend what suits your walls after looking at them.

Can you render over pebble-dash or old render?

Sometimes. We tap-test the walls first. If the existing finish is sound and well bonded, it can often be prepared and rendered over. If it’s hollow, cracked or loose, it needs removing first. We’ll tell you honestly which applies.

Can you render in winter?

Render needs dry weather above about 5°C to cure properly, so we book outside work around the forecast. Indoor plastering carries on all year.

How long before I can paint new plaster?

Usually a week or more, depending on how thick it is and how warm and ventilated the room is. It’s ready when it’s an even, light colour with no dark patches. Use a thinned mist coat first.

Do I need planning permission to render my house?

Re-rendering is often permitted development, but conservation areas, listed buildings and some estates have extra rules. Check with your local council before you commit.

Do you plaster and render extensions and conversions?

Yes. We board and skim extensions, loft rooms and garage conversions, and render new blockwork to match or contrast with the house.

More services: Plastering repairs · Plastering and coving · Plastering extensions and lofts · Rendering with sand and cement · Rendering new extensions.

Get a free quote

Send photos and rough sizes on WhatsApp to 07453 614095, or email rcrconnectionsltd@gmail.com. You can also use our contact page.

Guides: K-Rend Monocouche vs Silicone vs Sand and Cement Render · Signs Your Render Needs Repairing Before Winter · Rendering in Wet Weather · Rendering in Spring: Getting Your Render Ready · Rendering and the Damp Proof Course · White Salts on Render (Efflorescence) · Plastering in Cold Weather · Plastering Coats Explained · Plastering After a Damp Proof Course · Plastering New Plasterboard · Plastering Day: Getting a Room Ready · Plastering and Rendering Primers · Rendering Beads and Stop Ends · Cleaning Silicone Render · Blown Plaster: How to Spot It and What to Do · How Long Does Plaster Take to Dry? · Plastering Over Artex in Birmingham